Adventures in Asia

by Greg & Francie

Travel Info: Yunnan province, China

For anyone out there searching for travel information for Yunnan province…

Dali (old town), May 2007

  • We stayed one night in Jim’s Tibetan guest house.  It’s nice, but definitely overpriced at 200Y.
  • Rest of the time we stayed at Number 4 guest house (just a few blocks from Jim’s).  More affordable at 60Y a night, but we did have some leakage issues in our room after some heavy rains.  On the same street are several other reasonably priced places.
  • Cafe de Jack (a block or two down from Jim’s) is a fantastic place to hang out, eat, and drink.  The western food there is actually really good and not too expensive & the staff are all super nice & friendly.  I particularly recommend the grilled cheese sandwich (12Y) and lemon tea with brandy (8Y).  They are also the only place in town with a fireplace.
  • The Tibetan Cafe (on the ‘foreigner’ street) was really good as well.

Lijiang (old town), May 2007

  • We stayed at a great, cheap place (50Y a night) near Well Bistro, but I don’t know the name of it because they didn’t have an English sign or speak any English.
  • For food, Prague cafe & Well bistro (both in LP) were really good for western food such as salads and pizza.  Sakura (also in LP) had delicious korean food with really big portions.  We both got sick in Lijiang so unfortunately we didn’t sample too much Naxi cuisine.  We did try a place called Mama Fu’s.  It was okay – not great.

Tiger Leaping Gorge, May 2007

This hike is awesome.  If you are travelling in Yunnan province, you should not miss it.

How to do it:

  • Get a hand-drawn photocopy map somewhere in Lijiang (they have them at all the tour offices).
  • In the morning, take the bus to Qiaotou from the Lijiang central bus station. (you don’t need an advance ticket.  buses leave every hour or so)
  • In Qiaotou you can get another hand-drawn map at Jane’s cafe & if you have any questions about the hike, she will be happy to answer them.  It’s helpful to have two of these hand-drawn maps since they all contain slightly different info.
  • The trail head is a short walk from Jane’s. 
  • There are guest houses in various villages all along the trail.  If you get a late start on the first day, it’s only a 2 hour hike to the first guest house.  All the guest houses have food and drinks & are right off the trail or very close.   You don’t really need to carry much food or water with you – just stock up when you go through a village.
  • 1st night we stayed at Naxi Family guest house (70Y with private bathroom).  It was really nice – I highly recommend it.  2nd night, Tina’s.  40Y for a double with shared bathroom (squat toilet only).  The view from their terrace is really incredible.  3rd night, Sean’s guest house (30Y with shared bathroom).  Great place to hang out, good energy, good food, really clean & nice showers and bathrooms.
  • After you finish the gorge hike you can also hike down to the river.  It takes about an hour and a half one way.  We did this from the village where Sean’s GH and Walnut garden are.  It is really amazing to see the river, so even though you’ll be really tired from all the hiking by the time you get here you should really do it.  The trail is a little hard to find, but when we went, there was a village lady waiting there to show us the way (for a small tip).
  • To return to Qiaotou you have to take a shuttle van.  They can arrange this at Sean’s.  There is a big landslide about halfway back that you have to walk through, and then you catch a 2nd shuttle van to get the rest of the way back to Qiaotou.  The bus back to Lijiang stops right in front of Jane’s.  I think it comes every hour or two during the day.
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June 7, 2007 - Posted by | China, Travel, Yunnan

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